Giorgi Samanishvili | Master of Oenology | This time, the central theme of Homeland of Wine is bio, biodynamic, and so-called natural viticulture and winemaking. Let’s begin with the bio approach. In Georgia, bio (biological), also known as organic or ecological products, are regulated by specific legislation. All three terms have the same meaning, and, in line with European Union regulations (which the Georgian law directly mirrors), specific rules are defined for how viticulture must be practised by those following this approach. The use of synthetic or chemical fertilisers and systemic treatments is strictly prohibited. Only copper and sulphur-based treatments are permitted, and even then, only in limited quantities. The winemaking process is also subject to regulation: certain practices, such as pasteurisation and ultrafiltration, are not allowed. Equally important, the maximum allowable level of sulfur dioxide in the wine is set significantly lower than in conventional winemaking.
Levan Ujmajuridze: The second approach is biodynamic (the term bio means living, dynamic, energetic). Biodynamic viticulture focuses on natural energy and vital organisms. It takes a holistic view of agriculture, considering the interactions between farming, humans, the environment, and the cosmos. This approach includes the use of ‘astral energetic flows’ and prohibits mineral fertilisers and pesticides. The core philosophy is that the vine and everything around it must exist in harmony with nature.
Followers of biodynamic farming use biodynamic composts and preparations made from well-known medicinal plants to maintain the vine’s phytosanitary health — including chamomile, valerian, nettle, oak, dandelion, and others. To fertilise the soil and feed the plants, various composts and special mineral additives made from quartz, kaolin clay, fertiliser matured in a bull’s horn, and more, are applied. The scheduling of vineyard tasks follows an astronomical calendar.
The state does not set the specifications for biodynamic certification; however, inspections and controls are carried out by certification bodies and associations. Among biodynamic certifications, the most well-known are Demeter and Biodivyn, though others exist. Georgia has a Demeter certification held by ‘Gotsa Wine.’
Giorgi Samanishvili: The third approach, which I always prefix with ‘so-called,’ is natural wines. For example, in many European countries, labelling a wine as ‘natural wine’ is prohibited because it could cast doubt on other wines, which are by definition also natural. Nevertheless, France has managed to create a quality designation called ‘Vin Méthode Nature,’ which has clearly defined rules that winemakers holding this label strictly follow.
We also have a Natural Wine Association in Georgia, whose members have developed rules, a quality label, and a control system similar to France’s Vin Méthode Nature.
Iago Bitarishvili: In our association, the rules for vineyard care are the same as those in organic viticulture. The only difference is in the winery. Our regulations specify that during winemaking, no techniques or methods may be used that would fundamentally alter the wine’s natural organoleptic characteristics.
Giorgi Samanishvili: It’s important to note that natural winemaking is governed by much stricter regulations than biodynamics. It’s also worth noting that the production rules for natural wines in France and Georgia are virtually the same, with only minor differences. In Georgia, all additives are prohibited in natural winemaking except sulphur, which must not exceed 40 milligrams per litre. In French natural winemaking, sulphur use is generally permitted, but it must not exceed 30 milligrams per litre. Accordingly, there are two types of labels: one simply marked Vin Méthode Nature, and another labelled Vin Méthode Nature SO2 < 30 mg/l.
The greatest challenge in this approach is the strict prohibition of any additives in the wine. For example, adding commercial yeast is forbidden, although the winemaker is allowed to prepare their own yeast starter. Everything in natural winemaking must be indigenous. Artificial alterations to taste or composition are prohibited. This means that adjustments to sweetness or acidity, even if necessary for producing a quality wine, are not allowed, nor is the addition of oak chips or similar techniques. This can make the process more difficult when the grapes are of lesser quality. However, if the grapes are of good quality, of course, no such interventions are needed.
Levan Ujmajuridze: That’s why everything must begin in the vineyard, because wine is truly made in the vineyard.
Organic, Biological, and Ecological Approaches
Bio Certification
Iago Bitarishvili: Unlike neighbouring countries, Georgia has the advantage of having established the first certification body accredited by the European Union. Every year, the EU sends inspectors who have the authority to revoke accreditation from the certification body if any violations are found. It’s worth noting that Georgia’s certification service,which began operations in 1998 and started issuing certificates in 2005, has maintained its accreditation to this day. At one point, Georgia also assisted neighbouring countries, Armenia and Azerbaijan, in developing a unified system called Caucascert.
Giorgi Samanishvili: For the past 20 years, winemakers certified by Caucascert have been able to label their wines as bio (organic), and this certification is also recognised within European Union countries.
Vineyard Care
Iago Bitarishvili: For a vineyard, as with other types of farms, the transition period required to obtain bio certification is three years. During this time, the grower already follows the principles of organic viticulture and is under close observation. In the fourth year, the vineyard becomes eligible for certification.
Levan Ujmajuridze: In viticulture, we often hear about the negative effects of certain treatments. But it is important to understand that there are no inherently bad treatments, only instances of improper use. What truly matters is that: 1. Safety rules are observed, 2. Concentrations (dosages) are correct, and 3. A phenological approach is followed, meaning the vineyard should be sprayed only at the right time, and only with contact-based treatments, including those containing copper, sulphur, or made from herbal infusions. If the grower fails to correctly identify the optimal moment to begin spraying, known scientifically as the critical dew point, the time when dew presence creates ideal conditions for disease, they may end up spraying not once a week, but every two or three days, and still see no results. That is why education and raising awareness in this area are crucial. It is important to have more meetings and open discussions around organic and biodynamic farming practices.
Giorgi Samanishvili: I agree that today the biggest challenge is a lack of knowledge. When a grower adopts a method that limits pesticide use but does not fully understand what to apply, why, at what dosage, or when, they put their harvest at risk. Consequently, many end up abandoning organic practices and resorting to routine spraying, applying all available pesticides every 7 to 10 days. This not only increases costs but also causes unnecessary environmental damage. That is why proper knowledge is crucial.
Another interesting environmental approach is so-called rational viticulture (viticulture raisonnée) or integrated viticulture. This method avoids the use of strong chemical pesticides except for when the grower foresees a risk and reserves the right to intervene actively in the vineyard.
David Maghradze: Today, demand for organic products is increasing. The biological sector is growing, which in turn reduces negative environmental impact. More healthy products are being created, resonating positively with many consumers. The production process involves setting regulations and controls, which makes the product relatively more expensive. However, this is offset by the benefit of a healthy product produced without harmful environmental effects. This trend is growing both globally and in our country.
David Chichua: What motivates a viticulturist to turn to organic viticulture? Where does the idea come from, and what arguments support it? My colleagues have already mentioned product safety, environmental protection, and the health of vineyard workers, since the substances used shouldn’t harm human health. But I’d add one more important point: the typicality of the product. With conventional winemaking, the producer can steer any grape variety toward the desired result through various interventions, regardless of the environment. But when intervention in the vineyard and cellar is kept to a minimum, as organic viticulture requires, the product becomes a direct expression of the natural conditions of its terroir.
When we talk about the differences between organic and conventional winemaking, one ongoing debate is whether, in the long run, it’s the degradable synthetic substances or something like copper that poses a greater risk to the soil. After all, over a century, the amount of copper used can exceed several tonnes, and it doesn’t wash out of the soil easily.
Levan Ujmajuridze: We definitely need to address the issue of irrigation, which, for example, is largely discouraged in biodynamic viticulture. But if we look at it logically, all the vital processes within the vine that contribute to the grape’s organoleptic qualities are directly linked to water. Today, with global warming, these processes are already being reduced. Photosynthesis, which ideally should occur for at least 8 to 10 hours a day, is limited to just 4 to 5 hours during summer when temperatures exceed 35°C and relative humidity is low. If the soil lacks sufficient moisture, what level of quality can we really expect? In such conditions, not only is the current crop at risk, but the following year’s harvest is also compromised, especially in June and July when the next season’s yield begins to form within the overwintering buds. The result is lower yields and lower quality. This stereotype absolutely needs to be challenged. The vine must be irrigated when water levels in the soil reach a critical point and key ecophysiological processes are being severely restricted, though of course not during the ripening phase.
Kakha Tchotiashvili: Which is better, a vine with healthy green leaves where photosynthesis is active and the grapes ripen evenly, or one with withered, dried-out leaves? After all, what kind of wine can you expect from the latter?
Levan Ujmajuridze: It is also important to consider other complex factors such as grape variety, rootstock, location, vineyard exposure, trunk height, training systems, including the Georgian single pole training method, vine load, and more. Green operations must be carried out thoroughly and at precisely the right time, especially when only contact bio-preparations are used in the vineyard.
Fortunately, Georgia has several vineyard regions perfectly suited for the development of bio-organic and biodynamic farming.
Giorgi Samanishvili: One of the most important factors is the soil, both for bio-organic and biodynamic approaches. Iago has spoken about this on numerous occasions.
Iago Bitarishvili: In both organic and biodynamic farming, the cycle needs to be closed, which makes the viticulturist fully independent. That’s exactly what I strive for. What I mean is this: buy only copper and sulphur at most, and have everything else, including manure, sourced locally. This is why organic growers often keep sheep, which they release into the vineyard. They use the sheep’s manure to make their own compost, as farmyard manure can sometimes contain unwanted substances, such as antibiotics.
Levan Ujmajuridze: Both the preparation of manure and its application in the vineyard are very important. The manure must be properly heat-treated to ensure that weed seeds and harmful microorganisms, which could negatively affect the vine, are eliminated.
As for soil management, during the first two years after planting the vine, soil loosening and cultivation or vertical rotary tillage should be carried out. This process not only removes weeds but also levels the surface of the soil. From the third year onward, including in organic and biodynamic farming, it is advisable to adopt soil cover systems using naturally occurring vegetation or leguminous cover crops, siderats. These include Lathyrus, peas, soybeans, clover, beans, and other species, which are sown between vine rows and later incorporated into the soil to enhance fertility and improve structure.
Sideration is a French term that means the incorporation of specially grown green plants into the soil. It is a method of enriching the soil with organic matter and nitrogen, carried out by sowing specific plants, mostly from the legume family, in the soil and then incorporating their green biomass into it.
There are heavy soils with a dense mechanical structure, with lower layers that are compacted and impermeable to water. Even phylloxera-resistant rootstocks, which can develop root systems in rocky soils, struggle to penetrate such soil types. To address this problem, in May and June, we use a mix of specific plants sown between the vines. These plants have the ability to grow deeply into these challenging soils, improving the soil structure and making it more accessible and beneficial for the vines.
Why Should We Avoid Managing the Soil?
Levan Ujmajuridze: Natural soil is a living entity. Healthy soil is vital for organic production because it supplies the vine with essential nutrients. Soil hosts a diverse community of microorganisms that positively influence its structure. More than 45% of living organisms exist within the soil. For plants to absorb nutrients, whether mineral or organic, they must first dissolve in water. Soil microorganisms then convert these dissolved substances into forms that the plant can readily absorb. Imagine colonies of microorganisms forming a whole ecosystem in the soil, which the vine grower disrupts through frequent interference. The less we disturb the soil, the more we preserve its structure and texture, and through these microorganisms, we help the plant absorb mineral and organic nutrients.
The same can be said about the positive effects of siderats in the vineyard: they contribute to humus accumulation, prevent erosion, restore subsoil structure, and help retain soil moisture by providing shade. In rainy, humid regions, they aid moisture evaporation, while in conditions of vigorous vine growth, they can help restrain it. Siderats become organic matter and remain in the soil., Only the grapes are removed from the vineyard. Even prunings should not be taken away or burned, but should be shredded and left in the vineyard. Nutrients drawn from the soil by the vine must be returned to it.
Today, the decline of pollinators, including bees and other insects, is a global concern. The productivity of agricultural crops relies heavily on these pollinators. Some of them inhabit the natural or cultivated vegetation found within vineyards, including nectar-producing plants. In approaches such as organic and biodynamic viticulture, it is possible to support both pollinators and the broader ecosystem. This must be deeply rooted not only in innovation but also in tradition. Only then can meaningful results be achieved. We must never forget tradition, especially in our relationship with the earth.
Giorgi Samanishvili: We should also mention the factor of soil temperature. In the vineyard, even mowing tall grass isn’t always advisable, as this kind of ground cover helps keep the soil cooler, which in turn protects the microorganisms.
David Chichua: Where does the temptation to plough the soil come from? Ploughing speeds up the process of mineralisation and mobilises nutrients that are readily available to the vine, creating the illusion for the grower that working the soil is better for the plant. But this approach is fundamentally flawed. Continuous ploughing and cultivation reduce the formation of new organic matter in the soil, and sadly, it takes only a few centuries to deplete resources that have accumulated over millions of years, leading to biological, structural, and chemical degradation.
Kakha Tchotiashvili: It would be beneficial if seed material for cover crops and siderats became more accessible in Georgia.
Levan Ujmajuridze: This requires government support, and we can certainly provide justification for why this type of seed material is essential for the development of organic farming.
Kakha Tchotiashvili: We have several vineyards, including one that’s over 40 years old and still produces a very good harvest. However, it’s become increasingly difficult to manage. The vines have such twisted, gnarled trunks that machinery struggles to pass through. That’s why we’ve decided to uproot it and replant new vines. I understand we’ll lose 7 to 8 years before seeing a good yield again, but it’s the only sensible option.
David Maghradze: Viticulture is a long-term endeavour. A properly planted vine should serve you for 40 to 50 years. The resting period that a vineyard needs to restore fertility, along with the necessary agronomic measures during this time, including the use of specific rootstocks, might make a grower feel they’re losing valuable time before replanting. In reality, the opposite is true: a vineyard cultivated on a well-prepared plot is built for longevity, serves the grower for many years, and proves well worth the investment.
David Chichua: To add to what David said, preparing the soil is really important, especially in newly cleared vineyards, where it becomes even more crucial. The old vine roots need to be fully removed, and it can take at least two to three years to completely eliminate pests and fungal diseases.
Iago Bitarishvili: I should mention the low yield, which is critically important to me. The Chinuri variety, in particular, tends to produce a lot of bunches. I look forward to hearing your recommendations regarding green harvesting.
Levan Ujmajuridze: Phytotechnical measures are not limited to just green operations. Especially in the approach you’re following, green harvesting is essential. Green harvesting should be carried out within a specific agronomic window, ideally during veraison, when the grapes begin to ripen. By then, the grape bunches have already formed on the vine, and the varietal characteristics are clear. It’s not an absolute rule that the upper bunch on the fruiting cane must always be removed. Sometimes, if the lower bunch isn’t well developed, it’s better to remove that one instead.
David Chichua: In the Jighaura vine collection plot, we have varieties that won’t produce good results without green harvesting. For example, Danakharuli, Grdzelmtevana, and Simonaseuli. When Grdzelmtevana has two clusters per shoot, the upper one must be removed; otherwise, the fruit tends to be small and the vine’s vigour weakens. Simonaseuli is a vigorous variety that produces deeply coloured wines, but sometimes it sets so many clusters that the grapes struggle to develop their typical colour. Danakharuli also tends to yield a heavy crop, up to 25-30 tonnes, if left unchecked. That’s why green harvesting is essential alongside other green operation practices to maintain grape quality.
Kakha Tchotiashvili: We have Simonaseuli planted in our new vineyard. This is only the third harvest, which we pressed in a qvevri. The wine stayed on the full pomace for just over two and a half months. The result was interesting. Compared to Saperavi and other red wines, this Simonaseuli wine is best enjoyed at a lower temperature. It becomes even more intriguing as it warms in your hand. The wine is unfiltered. In character, it doesn’t resemble Saperavi; it is a lighter red with a noticeable violet tint. The aroma is lighter but very refined and delicate, while the taste is quite complex and light. This grape variety also shows good resistance to fungal diseases.
In the Simonaseuli vineyard, everything is done organically, from soil care to the treatments we use. Altogether, our vineyards cover nearly 17 hectares, and for now, we’re not planning to expand further. Instead, we’re focusing on renewing some of the older plots. The Simonaseuli vineyard, which spans three hectares and includes other grape varieties too, is particularly close to my heart because it’s where we started everything from scratch. We followed every necessary step before planting. You could say it’s a vineyard that was cultivated with real intention and care.
Iago Bitarishvili: I believe that if a grower can live in harmony with nature, each year in the vineyard will be better than the last, despite all the challenges along the way. I’ve been working in this field for over 27 years, yet I still feel there’s so much I don’t know and so much still to do. If you don’t truly love this work, it just won’t happen. Only love can give you the motivation to do more for a vineyard than it strictly needs. That, to me, is the essence and the real strength of natural winemaking.
Organic farming as a centuries-old tradition in Georgia
Levan Ujmajuridze: I remember how, years ago, organic farming was only just beginning to find its footing in Georgia. Today, the picture is very different. Progress is evident, with many growers now following this path, and their wines meeting recognised standards. One thing is producing a wine that is safe for human health; another is whether the varietal identity and flavour profile have been preserved. When all these elements come together, that is when we see results. But if the wine lacks varietal identity, aroma, organoleptic qualities, or sensory appeal, then we haven’t truly achieved what we set out to do.
David Maghradze: Today, many large and medium-sized producers have a dedicated line of organic wine. This was not the case years ago. Without a doubt, it’s a positive trend.
David Chichua: What we call bio-organic viticulture today is actually a practice established over millennia, while conventional methods represent the transformation of this technology that has taken place over the last century. When we say that organic agriculture is the future of farming, in reality, it's a return to the past. It’s also a fact that food production needs to align with the growing global population, which, as you’ll agree, is no easy task for staple foods. In this respect, wine is an exception. According to recent statistics, about 20% of the world’s wine production remains unsold, meaning supply exceeds demand. Every year, 250 million hectolitres of wine are produced, and clearly, the world’s population doesn’t need that much wine. Producing 30 to 40% less but focusing on more interesting and higher quality wine is a more relevant approach for winemaking. In this regard, viticulture and winemaking represent one of the most promising branches of organic agriculture.
Resilient Varieties
David Maghradze: What is the biggest challenge in organic viticulture and winemaking? It is the European grapevine, Vitis Vinifera, which lacks strong resistance to major fungal diseases and therefore requires heavy chemical intervention. One promising alternative is the breeding of disease-resistant varieties, known as PIWI grapes, which has been gaining momentum in recent years. The quality of their produce is steadily improving and increasingly approaching that of traditional European grape varieties.
Giorgi Samanishvili: It’s important to note that copper and sulfur remain compulsory necessities for growers, as there are currently no better alternatives for vineyard protection. This is precisely why global efforts to develop more resistant grape varieties have begun.
Levan Ujmajuridze: Fortunately, within the local gene pool of Georgian cultivated grapevine (Vitis vinifera), the Imeretian variety Mgaloblishvili has emerged as notably more resistant to diseases, particularly downy mildew. This variety represents excellent breeding material. We have a vast gene pool, 525 varieties in total, over 450 of which have been restored. Research in this area needs to be strengthened, as some Georgian varieties may prove resistant to downy and powdery mildew.
David Maghradze: Mgaloblishvili is a significant achievement for both Georgian and European grape breeding. This Imeretian variety still belongs to the category of rare varieties, and advancing its potential is very important.
Iago Bitarishvili: Unlike conventional farming, organic agriculture involves many restrictions, which makes proper knowledge all the more essential. That knowledge often comes through personal experience and the lessons learned from mistakes, as well as from exchanges with foreign friends and colleagues. I first came across the idea of cover cropping in France – the practice of laying down grass between the vine rows rather than clearing it. When I pulled aside the flattened grass, I found a whole army of living organisms underneath. How could I not be drawn to such a method?
Organic agriculture is especially a long-term pursuit. If you don’t love this work, you won’t endure it or be able to follow through, because there are so many factors you need to consider. For instance, Levan mentioned the use of legumes for cover cropping. Personally, I’m cautious about this, and here’s why: in our region (Mtskheta district, village of Chardakhi), humidity and rainfall are so low that I prefer to allow natural grassing to take place, encouraging grass species that are better suited to dry conditions and won’t draw too much moisture away from the vineyard. These are all things that practice reveals over time, and this practice is anything but short-term. It’s important that we explain to the next generation that this work requires deep knowledge and a great deal of perseverance.
So-called Natural Winemaking
Giorgi Samanishvili: The category of natural wine does not formally exist. You won’t find any reference to it in our legislation, nor in that of the European Union. And yet, the term is widely used. In nearly every major city, you’ll find natural wine bars selling wines made by producers who identify themselves with this so-called category. Of course, there is no law prohibiting this.
Demand for natural wine is on the rise. Its consumers tend to belong to a relatively high-income segment. This category of wine is not a basic necessity — it’s not a product everyone needs to have. Large-scale producers tend to avoid entering this field due to the high risks involved. As a result, natural winemaking is mostly pursued by small-scale producers who have the luxury of making limited quantities and selling at higher prices. Wines like these are expected to carry more emotion and tell a compelling story.
This trend is on the rise in Georgia. At international exhibitions and tastings, Georgian natural wine producers enjoy a level of recognition that far surpasses the global awareness of Georgian wine in general. Naturally, this success greatly supports the sales of more conventional wines and helps to advance the country’s overall image. For these reasons, this segment certainly deserves close attention.
